Veiled chameleon – These chameleons are the most common and most accessible kind of chameleon, and today they reproduce in captivity. It is a very tough reptiles that require high cages, additional heat and UV light, various insects in the diet, and a system of dripping water.
The natural environment
It is important to understand the natural environment of reptiles since it will be necessary to provide them with an environment that largely mimics the natural environment. The habitat of the chameleon are western Yemen and southern Saudi Arabia, where temperatures are between 20-43.3 ° C; these areas are relatively moist, although there is not much rainfall. These chameleons, insectivorous, concentrate on places near bodies of water, for example. on the riverbed where it once was water, and then grow vegetation. Besides places with dense vegetation, there are a lot of insects – basic foods in their diet. A large part of the water obtained by licking dew from leaves and branches, and the displacement of water also stimulates them to drink water. In the morning, usually the sun, collecting thus the heat for a cold night. Veiled chameleon spend most of their time in trees, bushes and easy to climb.
Veiled chameleon has a tail that can be kept for the branches, which allows him to balance while climbing. Their feet also adapted for holding branches and are quite strong. They have rotating eyes, which move independently: one can not focus on something that is on the right side, and the other looks down or left. Language of the chameleon is sticky and can be a long while chasing prey.
Differences in subdivisions
There are two subspecies of C. calyptratus Yemen chameleon calyptratus and calyptratus calcarifer. The biggest difference is in the “cap” or the fleshy part of the fins in the form of bumps on the head. The cap with C. c. calyptratus slightly higher than that of C. c. calcarifer.
In males, these caps are usually prominent. Mature males are 42.7-60.9 cm long while females are usually long 30.4 cm. The spines on his back are larger in males. Males also have spines on their hind legs, as opposed to females who do not have them. Although both sexes change color, males are more pronounced.
Veiled chameleon is best known for its ability to change color. The color of the chameleon is can vary depending on the health status, identifying threats or intruders entering their territory, the presence of other chameleons, then color may vary during dressing, age, sex, season, temperature, lighting and other external factors. Changing the color can be quick, as a reaction to the threat, or gradually.
If you nurture and feed properly, males chameleon can live for seven to ten years, breeding females four to six years.
Chameleons prefer solitude and are very sensitive to stress. Territorial and aggressive in the presence of a trug Yemen chameleon. Instances of this kind should be stored separately in separate cages. The presence of other chameleons in the same cage can be very stressful for chameleons and can affect their immune systems, making them more prone to disease. Even his own reflection in the aquarium glass can cause extreme territorial behavior, and as a consequence have termination dishes.
Chameleons are shy and slow-moving. When frightened, these chameleons will swell the air, loud hiss, and they can change the color. Wearing Yemen chameleon should be avoided as it causes stress, which increases the risk of disease and premature death. If it is still necessary to carry their chameleon, do not lift, but place your hand in front of a chameleon and let him walk on your hand. Do not hold your neck, back, legs or tail chameleon unless it is really necessary to do so.
Mesh cages (metal mesh coated with vinyl) provide a better environment than glass aquariums, since they allow better ventilation, visual barriers, and good protection. These chameleons are highly territorial and if you see my reflection in the aquarium glass can not be afraid. Chameleons need enough roomy cage, including vertical elevations. The substrate is not necessary. The cage should be set so that the chameleon is at eye level or even above. It should cage has a tight lid. Also it should be moved from the crowds, and other reptiles, snakes or birds that can be seen as a threat.
Furniture in a cage
Wooden twigs različitith dimension large enough for a chameleon to climb with ease should be provided. Make a few beams, especially in the zone for “sun” and designed the paths of various twigs to the bottom of the cage. You can also add live plants, including hibiscus, ficus (juice can be somewhat toxic), Scheffler, Bougainvillaea, Pothos and ferns.
Daily temperatures should be around 26.6 ° C, while at night the temperature should be reduced to approximately 21.1 ° C. The temperature in the part of the “deck” is supposed to be 32.2-37.7 ° C during the day. Electric light bulb (75 watts or less is generally sufficient) with reflector, should be placed in the area of the cage, which has branches or beams of different heights. This will produce changes in temperature during the day. If necessary, an infrared lamp or room heater can be used to maintain the optimum night temperatures. Do not use hot rocks for chameleons, given that their heat needs to be “sun” and not to stand on it. Measure the temperature in different parts of the cage using a good quality thermometer, to ensure a sense the temperature in the cage.
If possible, provide direct access to sunlight, but make sure that the temperature in the cage is not too high. Never put a glass aquarium on direclty solar lighting, can become too hot. Fluorescent bulbs full spectrum light bulb with UVB light should be used to make a chameleon able to produce vitamin D3. You can also use two fluorescent lamps depending on the length of the cage. You can combine, using a single light bulb that emits UVB, and other fluorescent bulbs full spectrum. Both bulbs must be replaced after six months, given that the ability to emit true light full spectrum decreases over time. The light source should be 45.7-60.9 cm away from chameleons. The light should also be aimed directly at the reptile, and that is not filtered through glass or plastic. Mercury lamp that emits UV-B, UV-A and infrared heaters can be used.
Water and humidity
The relative humidity should be maintained at the cages 50-60%. Often it is advisable to slightly raise the humidity during the night. As already indicated, chameleons ensure their water needs by drinking dew from leaves. They’re attracted to the water droplets that range or reflect light. Veiled chameleon rarely drink water from a bowl of water, and drinking water would be to mimic the water in their wild environment: ie, water droplets on the leaves of plants. Chameleons are very prone to dehydration so you need to give them the sources of drinking water that will be used.
And humidity and drinking water may be available in several combinations:
- Construct irrigation system in the cage. PVC pipes, which have small holes can be connected to the water supply using a valve to control the flow of water. The pipes are placed in the cage, and water dripping into the cage. It should set up a system to collect water below the cage, something like a plastic bowl.
- Set the system tray. This means that the container is placed in the cage with the water, with a plastic pipe, so that water falling from above to the plant.
- Buy automatically system for fogging or humidifier with cold fog. This is usually available in pet stores or in stores garden equipment.
- Fog the inside of the cage several times a day until the water starts to fall with the leaves. But keep in mind that this may not, by itself, produce enough water for an adult chameleon.
- Produce a small commercial waterfall. This will increase the humidity, though the chameleon might require a system of dripping water as a source of drinking water. If used waterfalls, must be regularly cleaned as it will be contaminated feces and insects.
Veiled chameleon is insectivorous, and he needs a varied and healthy diet. He will become bored, and bumpers to eat something he did every day gives. Adults chameleons will eat every other day.
Prepare insects feeding: fed insects should be dusted calcium supplements (powder of calcium carbonate or calcium gluconate) twice a week for adults chameleons, and every day for the pups. These insects should have been richly fed, which means that the insects fed vitamin food high nutritional quality, before the chameleons offer as food. Good food for insects include legumes, corn, carrots, sweet potato, leafy vegetables, repast vegetables, broccoli, spinach, apples, oranges, and bran and other cereals. There are also commercial products rich in calcium and vitamins which can feed on insects. Insects can be purchased or hunted (where you can not use pesticides). Meals may include: crickets (not more than 50% of the diet), flour worms, wax worms (rich in fat, so they only need them occasionally feed), wax larvae, earthworms, cockroaches, flies, cicadas, grasshoppers, caterpillars, silkworms, pink mice, bugs.
Insects should be fed by being placed in a small container. After feeding, check whether any of the insects escaped and fill the water in the cage.
Some pretenders also can eat a small amount of plant foods. You can set the repast or leafy vegetables on the side of the cage to cage, and spray them with water.
Lodging and meals these chameleons should to the greatest possible extent mimics the natural environment in which the chameleons in the wild. In this way, and avoiding stress, such as the presence of other chameleons eg., Avoid wearing your chameleon will ensure a long and healthy life.